Three islands, three characters
Bickerseiland is the liveliest of the three, with a mix of restored warehouses and modern housing along the car-free Bickersgracht. Look out for De Dierencapel , a small volunteer-run city farm right on the water — a favourite with families.
The island technically stopped being an island in 1878, when a railway embankment connected it to the mainland, but its village feel never faded.
Realeneiland - named after the influential Reael merchant family - is the picture-postcard island, famous for the Zandhoek, a row of elegant 17th-century gabled houses facing the water where sand ships used to unload their cargo.
The Reael family home is adorned with a gable stone depicting the 'Gouden Reael' coin. Nowadays, this iconic corner building is home to the acclaimed Tannay restaurant, known for its waterside terrace and French bistro cuisine.
Prinseneiland is the quietest and most artistic of the three. Once home to more than a hundred warehouses, many are now studios and ateliers, and the island still draws painters and craftspeople today — the famous Dutch painter George Hendrik Breitner worked here until 1914.
Don't miss the Palmentuin at Prinseneiland 40, a hidden semi-public garden that feels almost tropical, and the wooden shore-side winch along the Prinseneilandsgracht (near Galgenstraat), the last of its kind in Amsterdam, once used to hoist barrels of tar.
Also worth seeking out is Galgenstraat, whose end once offered a grim view across the water to the city's gallows in Amsterdam Noord.